Trango Towers Expedition (6286 m)

The Trango Towers (6286 m) are a group of dramatic granite spires located on the north side of the Baltoro Glacier, in Baltistan. The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbs in the world. Great Trango is often called “Nameless Tower”. All of the Trango Towers lie on a ridge, trending northwest-southeast, between the Trango Glacier on the west and the Dunge Glacier on the east. Great Trango itself is a large massif, with four identifiable summits: Main 6286 m, south or southwest 6250 m, east 6231 m, and west 6223 m.

Trango Tower was climbed for the first time in 1976 by British climbers Martin Boysen, Joe Brown, Malcolm Howells and Mo Anthoine. The ascent followed an unsuccessful attempt the previous year which had to be abandoned after Boysen’s knee became stuck in a crack high on the route. The expedition was accompanied by film-makers Tony Riley and Jim Curran.

The first third of the route involved mixed climbing, followed by sustained and difficult rock climbing. About 80% of the climbing was free, according to Mo Anthoine. It appears that about 3 bolts were placed. All members of the climbing team shared the leads, but most of the leading was done by Boysen. Martin Boysen and Mo Anthoine reached the summit on 8 July, followed by Brown and Howells on 9 July. “Cameraman” Tony Riley got to within 400 feet of the top.