Broad Peak Expedition (8047 m)

Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1½ kilometres (1 mile) long, thus “Broad Peak”. Broad Peak is known locally as Faichan Kangri. The peak is located along the western Baltoro glacier between K2 and Gasherbrum IV in the Karakoram range in Shigar valley Baltistan; it is the 12th highest mountain on Earth and 4th highest in Pakistan. Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif and is about 8 kilometres (5 miles) from K2.

The first ascent of Broad Peak, in Pakistan’s Karakoram Mountains, was achieved by a small Austrian expedition in 1957. Broad Peak is the twelve highest mountains in the world. All four of the team members – Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl – reached the summit.

The local name of Broad peak is Falchan Kangri. The first westerner who saw the peak was probably Lieutenant T.G. Montgomerie. He was surveying the mountains in the area and in 1856 he spotted some extraordinary peaks, which he gave temporary names. The summit ridge of the peak is almost 2 km long and therefore British explorer W.M. Conway thought Broad Peak was a suitable name. Summit was made in 1957 by an Austrian expedition consisting of only four climbing members. Using many of the fixed lines set up by the failed German expedition of 1954, all four summitted without using oxygen didn’t have the help of any HAPs (high altitude porters) or guides and the climb was a remarkable success for alpine style climbing, as it occurred well before the time of small independent teams attempting the highest peaks on earth.