Rakaposhi is situated in the Nagar Valley approximately 100 km north of the city of Gilgit .Rakaposhi means “Snow Covered” in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Dumani (“Mother of Mist”).
It is ranked 27th highest in the world and 12th highest in Pakistan, but it is more popular for its beauty than its rank might suggest. Situated in Nagar Valley facing Hunza, it is one of the magnificent pyramids in the world. The peak can be climbed from all sides. Dominating the horizon, it is constantly visible from the Karakoram Highway. The scene from Hunza is awesome and beyond description. Its perpetual glacier adds thrill of delight that belongs to the beauty of Hunza.
In 1892, Martin Conway explored this peak though he could not find any way to summit. On June 25, 1958 a British/Pakistani joint expedition with members Mike Banks and Tom Patey of UK reached the summit. The North Spur was climbed on August 2, 1979 by Eiho Ohtani and Matsushi Yamashita of Waseda University Japan.