Masherbrum Peak Expedition (7821 m)

Masherbrum (also known as K-1) is the 22nd highest mountain in the world and the 11th highest in Pakistan. It is the highest peak of the Masherbrum range, a sub range of the Karakorum Mountains. It is a large and striking peak, which is somewhat overshadowed by the nearby 8000-m peaks of the main range of the Karakorum which includes four of the fourteen Eight-thousanders, namely K2, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. The meaning of the name “Masherbrum” is not entirely clear. Although “brum” means mountain in Balti. “Masha” means lady, and “Masherbrum” is thus the “Queen of Peaks”.

The Masherbrum range lies to the south of the Baltoro glacier and the main range of the Karakorum lies to the north of the Baltoro. The main range is the continental divide of Asia. Rivers to the south flow into the Arabian Sea.

The Baltoro Glacier is the route most commonly used to access the 8000m peaks of the Karakorum, and many trekkers also travel on the Baltoro. Masherbrum also lies at the north end of the Hushe valley, which serves as the southern approach to the peak. After two more failed expeditions, in 1955 and 1957, Masherbrum was first climbed in 1960 by George Irving Bell and Willi Unsoeld, part of an American-Pakistani expedition led by Nick Clinch. They succeeded in climbing the southeast face route that had stymied the earlier parties.