Spantik Peak Expedition (7027 m)

Spantik is also called the Golden Peak and is the part of the mountain chain that forms the boundary between Nagar and Arandu, Baltistan. This is one of the quieter parts of the Karakoram. Conway named it as Golden Parri, which means Golden Fairy. The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1899 via the Southeast ridge by famous American couple Dr. and Mrs. William B Workman who climbed from Chogolungma Glacier via Arandu side, which remained the highest record in mountaineering for women for years to come. They ascended up to 330 meters before the summit. The same route was used by five German climbers headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955.

The most commonly climbed line follows the South East Ridge, which was attempted by the Bullock Workman party in 1906. The ridge rises 2700m over a lateral distance of 7.6 km, at angles which are mostly less than 30 degrees, with a few sections up to 40 degrees. It contains varied terrain, from rocky outcrops to snow and ice.

Spantik Peak is known by various names because of its beauty and grandeur. The unclimbed, extremely technical northwestern face on the Nagar side is a huge wall, known as the Golden Pillar, due to its bright red color of golden, and is locally called “Ghenish Chhish”, which in Brushaski (local language) means Golden Mountain.

The mountain is very popular with organized commercial expeditions, due to its relative ease of ascent and scarcity of objective dangers. The short three day approach trek across straightforward terrain also provides for easy access and gradual acclimatization. The peak can be approached from Nagar Valley as well as from Baltistan side. Most recently Spantik has been a favorite for climbers to train themselves for higher elevation. Lying to the south of the great Hispar glacier and standing above upper Chogolungma, the approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks.